A balanced view from a formulator who still believes oils do it best

Let me say this clearly.

I formulate 100% oil-based skincare because I believe it is, in most cases, the most efficient, stable and skin-intelligent way to deliver nourishment. That hasn’t changed.

What I cannot support is the current narrative that water-based skincare is inherently inferior, harmful or environmentally reckless. That argument lacks scientific grounding.

There is a balance here. And balance is where good formulation lives.

Do we actually need water in skincare?

In many cases, no.

If your goal is barrier repair, lipid replenishment, reducing transepidermal water loss and protecting compromised skin, oils and anhydrous balms perform exceptionally well. They mimic the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum. They do not require preservation. They are inherently microbiologically stable because microbes cannot proliferate without free water.

From a formulation standpoint, that simplicity is elegant.

Oil-based products also tolerate temperature fluctuations well and avoid the structural instability that poorly designed emulsions can suffer from. No separation. No microbial risk. No high water activity.

For a large percentage of skin concerns, particularly dry, inflamed or mature skin, oils make physiological sense.

When water actually makes sense

Here is where nuance matters.

Water is required when you need to deliver ingredients that are not oil-soluble.

Examples include:

• Glycerin
• Niacinamide
• Panthenol
• Certain peptides
• Some botanical extracts
• Water-soluble vitamins

If an active ingredient is hydrophilic, you cannot simply dissolve it into oil and hope for the best. Chemistry does not bend to marketing trends.

Water also plays a role in thermodynamic stability. Certain gel structures, lamellar emulsions and polymer networks maintain viscosity and texture in higher temperatures more effectively than some balms. In very warm climates, a well-designed emulsion can outperform an oil blend in terms of user experience and stability.

So no, water is not useless. It is functional when used with intention.

The preservative debate needs scientific context

Water requires preservation. That is not optional. Any product containing water has measurable water activity, and bacteria, yeast and mould will grow if left unprotected.

The idea that all preservatives are harmful to the skin microbiome is an oversimplification.

Modern naturally derived systems demonstrate selective antimicrobial activity while maintaining good skin tolerance.

Examples include:

Leucidal Liquid SF

A ferment derived from Leuconostoc. Studies demonstrate antimicrobial peptide production capable of inhibiting pathogenic organisms while remaining skin compatible.

AMTicide Coconut

A coconut-derived antimicrobial with broad activity against bacteria and fungi.

Glyceryl Caprylate and Pentylene Glycol

Multifunctional ingredients that combine humectant properties with antimicrobial support, reducing the need for high concentrations of traditional preservatives.

Vitamin E (Tocopherol)

An antioxidant that prevents lipid oxidation, protecting oils from rancidity and reducing oxidative stress on the skin.

Preservation becomes problematic when it is aggressive or used without understanding skin physiology. Responsible formulation is the difference.

Contaminated skincare poses a greater risk than a well-designed preservative system.

Emulsifiers are not the villains

Emulsifiers stabilise water and oil mixtures. Without them, separation occurs. That is chemistry, not conspiracy.

Older surfactant systems could disrupt barrier lipids. Newer naturally derived emulsifiers are structurally different.

Olivem® 2090 (Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate/Polyricinoleate)

Derived from olive oil fatty acids. Polyglyceryl esters are known for their mildness and compatibility with sensitive skin.

Sunflower Lecithin

A phospholipid similar to components of cell membranes. Lecithin can assist in barrier support and liposomal delivery systems.

The presence of an emulsifier does not automatically equate to barrier damage. Type, structure and concentration determine behaviour.

Sustainability is more complex than “no water”

The environmental footprint of a cosmetic product depends on:

• Raw material sourcing
• Energy used in manufacturing
• Packaging materials
• Transportation
• End of life disposal

Municipal purified water used in cosmetic manufacturing is not the same as extracting scarce freshwater resources irresponsibly. A waterless balm in non-recyclable plastic shipped internationally may carry a higher carbon cost than a responsibly manufactured cream in sustainable packaging.

Oversimplifying sustainability to one ingredient distracts from meaningful impact.

As a brand certified under the COSMOS standard by the Soil Association, I can say confidently that water-based formulations using approved natural preservatives and emulsifiers are rigorously assessed for environmental and toxicological safety.

If they were fundamentally damaging, they would not pass certification.

Where I stand

Oil-based skincare remains my preferred system.

It aligns with barrier science. It reduces formulation complexity. It avoids the need for preservation. It delivers lipids in their purest form. For many skin types, it performs beautifully.

But I will not dismiss water-based skincare entirely.

Water is useful when carrying hydrophilic actives. It is useful in certain climate conditions. It is useful when texture and rapid absorption are required.

What I reject is fear-driven marketing that frames water as dilution or deception.

The real question is not “waterless vs water-based skincare”.

The real question is:

Is the formulation intelligent?
Is it microbiologically safe?
Is it environmentally responsible?
Is it backed by evidence?

Chemistry does not care about trends. It responds to structure, solubility and stability.

As a skincare scientist, I believe oil-based formulations often offer the most efficient and elegant solution. I also recognise that balanced science always leaves room for context.

And context is where integrity lives.

Selected Scientific References

1. Elias PM. Skin barrier function. Journal of Investigative Dermatology.
2. Lodén M. Role of moisturizers in barrier repair. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology.
3. Rawlings AV, Harding CR. Moisturization and corneocyte biology. Dermatologic Therapy.
4. Herman A, Herman AP. Preservatives in cosmetics and their safety. Molecules.
5. Eccleston GM. Emulsifiers and skin compatibility. International Journal of Cosmetic Science.
6. COSMOS Standard. Soil Association Certification guidelines for organic cosmetic formulations.